Screen Print your own t-shirts // How-To

I like to see nonsense. Today I’m going to show you how to screen book your own t-shirts. You’re going to need a screen, a squeegee, and some photo emulsion. This nonsense comes in 2 responsibilities. You’re going to add a little ocean to the little bottle of sensitizer, and mix it up. That slackens it from the sides of the bottle, and then you can spew it into the emulsion. Then you’re going to combination that all together truly, really well, until it’s a consistent green color.

It might take a little while, but you want to make sure that you get it fully consistent. Once you have it, you spew a bit of it onto the screen. You don’t need to use very much because it spreads truly thin once you use the squeegee. Make sure to get the part stuff clothed where you’re artistry “re gonna be all” and make sure it’s really, truly even Now, don’t leave this out in the light.Gave a love on it to dehydrate and pass the light-headeds off. You want it to dry in the dark. Once it’s dry you do want to work immediately because this nonsense is photosensitive, so the longer the light’s on it, the quicker it’s going to set. Reproduce out your artistry on some openness, and you can do this at any office supplies store, and then lay them backwards on the back of the screen. Lay a piece of glass over them to propagandize them down against the screen, and then provided a really light light on top of it for about 3-45 minutes. So, while we’re waiting on that, I want to tell you about this. In this box is a queen-size mattress. Unbelievably it fits in this box. It’s made by a company announced Casper, and it’s a combination of reminiscence and latex sud and they squish it down into a bag– persist it in this box. They ship it to you, you take a tool, and you rip open the luggage, and the whole mattress really inflates.

If you want to watch now, you can see a video about me making a king-size couch and on that berthed we use a Casper mattress. So I’ve been sleeping on it since I manufactured that video, and I can candidly articulate that I truly adore the mattress. Super cozy, I recommend them all the time when people ask my if I actually like them or not because I truly do. The cool stuff is you get to sleep on it for 100 lights and if you don’t like it for any ground, they’ll developed get onto. So if you are looking for a mattress, I clearly indicate checking this out go to casper.com. You can use the code “MAKE” and that’ll got to get $50 off anything you order which is pretty awesome. So, is checked’ em out. Thanks to Casper for patronizing this video. Let’s get back to the publication. The light-footed exposes and thickens the emulsion that is not covered by the design, so you can see the lighter green stuff now didn’t get exposed. You can use a light-footed scatter and a soft toothbrush to improve remove this area.

The mode printing works is that the green province acts as a concealment. The white–or lighter area–lets the ink through onto the surface that you’re publication on. You want to do this gently, because you don’t want to remove anything that you actually involve This may take a little bit of period, and sometimes you may have missteps. If you have areas that are missteps, or nonsense you don’t want to book more, you can use some strip to cover them up. Use painter’s strip and not duct strip — the passage strip will rip off the emulsion. -Now lay out your shirt and target your screen, then include a nice thick-skulled be bead of the screen printing ink It’s best to have somebody else accommodate your screen and then pull the squeegee down across your book If you click here you can see one of my first videos on this direct was how to make a four hue printing press, this obliges this process- a lot easier but it’s really exactly the same you hook- in the screen text it up with your core text and then you can get repeatable nice prints- on multiple shirts you lay your shirt out in the same way, and then use the machine to contained the screen down in place you still gather it the same way and get just about the same outcomes you want to heat provided these by hurling them in the dryer for a few minutes You can reuse the screens extremely if you’re finished with them by putting some photo emulsion remover on them This is a simple solution that you can just kind of clean on with a newspaper towel or a toothbrush Make sure you situated it on both sides and it doesn’t have to stay on longer than got a couple of minutes Then you can use a hose to wash out all of the emulsion If “youre using” pitch-dark ink sometimes it will discolour the screen itself but you can still reprint through them- as long as the emulsion is croak Now it takes a little bit of practice, when you do this you are able end up having some bad shirts it takes a little while to get the detect to seeing how hard you need to push down the squeegee and how to do it evenly because you want to make sure you get a really even gather, so that the- ink is spread evenly through the screen So it’s best to find some old-fashioned t-shirts to tradition on before you try and use like your nice shirts that you purchased for this.

Now screen printing works on all sorts of things Textiles, so any type of t-shirt, canvas, luggage, aprons, even hats- if you can work on the form of the hat. All sorts of nonsense like that, any type of attire employs really really well. Just make sure to heat provide it into the clothing just like I testified you You can also print on paper if you wanted to see signs or summons, events like that, newspaper directs really well.

I’ve also engraved on wood several times You can watch my long committee video where now where I screen engraved my logo on it that was really easy to do I’ve done it for several your customers to situated their logo on events that I’ve manufactured -and it directs amazingly well and I’ve also done it on metal you just have to make sure you situated some kind of a clearly defined hair over it it to protect it because it will scrape off the metal pretty easily as long as you clear coat it you should be good to go so if you’re interested in engraving I’m going to have a link below to my site which will have a schedule of all the stuff I used and ties-in for you to find everything this is necessary so you can book on your own I hope you like this project and if you did let me know down in the comments below or at Iliketomakestuff.com I love to hear from you guys, I love to see the stuff you’re working on it’s really inspiring for me so please continue to share that with me.

You can find me on all of the social networks, which ever one you like best available, I’m probably there. I have a lot more nonsense for you to check out in podcast and proves and all sorts of nonsense and if you want to help support these videos, patreon is the best mode to do that you can click here you are able to click here -and catch out all about that. Thanks for watching chaps, thanks to Casper for patronizing this video and I’ll see you next time ..

Advertisements

DIY Mosaic Tile Bird Bath – Man Vs. Pin – Pinterest Test #45

Let’s just get into it. A couple a few weeks ago, Justice commented, “This looks pretty swag.” Over 1800 of you agreed, which is a little ludicrous. If you don’t know what swag necessitates, Urban Dictionary characterizes it as “the most used word in the whole[ beep] universe.” Apparently, the committee is also necessitates Secretly We Are Gay. Who knew? The mosaic tile fowl bath, originally posted over on Me and My DIY, this thing is made out of DVDs. DV what? I belief I still have a few of those somewhere.

Oh yeah, here we go, House of 1000 Corpses, classic, Pineapple Express, Adventure Time, Womb Raider. Wait. Hold on, Assablanca? How’d these get in here? These aren’t mine. Corinne, are these yours? All right, keep moving, the directions say to take some scissors and cut the DVD in half. Then it kind of separates into two, so you remove the outer plastic layer, and then you take the reflective side and you cut those into small-scale pieces. All right, I did that, and it looks like[ beep ]. I cut them into smaller pieces, and they turned out as bad. I don’t want to glue these onto anything. All right, I’m going to try this out on some age-old Cds and realize if it gets any better. Katy Perry? Hold on. You’re not “re going away”. All right, these Cds are a little bit easier. No extra plastic layer to remove or cut into, but still they’re moving out like[ beep ]. It wasn’t until about 8 to 10 discs in that I recognized the whole secret is you’ve just got to cut these[ beep] things super precise, super slow. Merely then will it not look like[ beep ]. Applying this technique to the DVDs didn’t really help so much better, so I merely protruded to the CDs.

And eventually, things are looking up. A small-scale tip-off: Cutting CDs[ beep] suctions. Objective of tip-off. Hours afterward, I eventually had enough tiny, little Cd pieces to start work on my fowl bath. I got myself a good-sized saucer platter thing. I grabbed some heavy job cement and began adding Cd pieces one after one after one after one. Once I was finished with the bottom, I glued pieces at the edges and along the sides. What had to be nearly 18 hours later I was ultimately finished gluing[ beep] to this platter. I left it out to dry overnight, and the next morning busted out the grout. Now, I myself “ve never” employed grout, so I followed the trace out educations the best I could and intent up with, I hope, the right consistency. I don’t[ beep] know. Looks okay, I guess. Once mixed, I began to spread it onto the platter utilizing a putty knife, but that kind of sucked Then I stole this thing from the kitchen because that’s what they used in the pin, but that is actually wasn’t much better. It eventually came down to me merely utilizing my hands, which was the best option.

I filled in all the spaces, stimulated sure it was smooth, and then, with a damp cloth, mopped off all the Cd tiles. I feel like after I added the grout it muddled some of the color a little bit. That and I belief DVDs are a little bit more purple-y in color. Whatever the case, I think it searches awesome. I placed it in the downstairs garden-variety, added some water, and now to see if this thing actually works. Boom. Yeah it does. That is one swagalicious fowl bath. Those guys are having a bang. Four things: First thing, subscribe. ThreadBanger is about to reached thousands and thousands of[ beep] customers, and that’s just[ beep] insane. Second thing, like this video up. Even if you didn’t like the video. Who cares? It’s just a stupid button. Third thing, leave your pins in specific comments below so I know what the[ beep] I’m doing next week.

How to Make DIY Tin Can Wind Chimes: Faux Rust Recycled Tin Can Chime Art Project

Hey, there imaginative exertions, Chongolio, here again, busting a move and bringing you video log #21 And in this episode I’m gonna walk you through how to create a faux root proficiency and likewise how to make a homemade, recycled, kinetically driven berth cataclysmic, folk artistries statue. Too called a tin can wind chime. I employed a roll of things you’ll need down below You can also get some more helpful tip-off by following the link to my website. This little tutorial bit longer than most of my other video enters so let’s movement right on into it, shall we? Okay, the first thing we are going to do is flex the edges of these bottle ceilings outward expanding these needle nose pliers. You don’t have to bend them too much just slightly out to be allowed to demolish them flat with a mallet. Hammer away from your digits and be careful not to destroy your paws. I am crushing my bottle ceilings flat on this 1 x 2″ article of the grove to protect my table’s surface.

I will likewise use this section of the grove in the next step of this project. Next, I am going to use this finishing hammer to settle flaws in the ceilings and likewise to contain them into the plaza. When I pull out the rubber lining from inside the ceilings With a heat shoot or a “hairs-breadth” dryer blast the ceilings with some hot air to assistance, loosen the glue beneath the rubber liner. Pay attention to the heat because you don’t want to defrost that happening. I was heating mine for about 8 seconds with this pro heat shoot. The ceilings get hot so use the needle nose pliers to comprised the detonator in place while you pick out the liner. You’ll find some liners come out easier than others, but on the adamant ones plow ahead and heat those suckers up until their virtually to the point the melting then use the head of the jailer to assistance scrape out the liner from the inside the cap.

The conclude behind removing the coating is to constitute them more resonating and not so dull voice. Virtually, we are procreating little insignificant cymbals. We’re likewise going to give the same treatment to 3 disconnected bottle ceilings. You don’t need to pull the liners out of these ones, but “you’re about” employed flaws opposite of each other. These 3 detonators were going to use as show-stoppers for the cans, and while we’re at it let’s go ahead and take one of the lids from the medium or the small can, hammer it flat and pierce a fault in that as well.

Be super careful of the edges on those cans hey are really sharp! Use your needle nose with pliers to stop back any burrs that might get ya. Now let’s go ahead and prepare the cans which have been soaked in water, and the labels removed Some WD-4 0, an age-old rag and a little elbow grease can take off any residual glue left from the labels. Consuming the 1 x 2″ article of the grove and the mallet and nail we’re gonna plow ahead and poke some flaws in the open be brought to an end the smallest can.

Keep hammering flaws around the cheek of the can until you have eight flaws that are spaced similarly apart. Smack a fault in the center of each of the three cans, and then we can call it quits with the hole hammering. Now let’s get into some black acrylic cover and start covering those cans. You can see I am only squirting the cover on the top of that smallest can and then expanding a touch to request the sheet to the other cans. Become onward and afford all three can see several hairs of cover and be sure to let each coat cool before exploiting the next layer. Don’t forget to get both sides of that lid extremely. The next step in the painting process commits expending Rub and Buff. And proficiency that I picked up from Gary Reef and Rach0 113 and then added my own Chongolian slant to it.

Mostly, you’re pressuring the Rub and Buff onto your paw and smearing it on the can leave areas of the black under locate to establish through in some smudges How often you put on is a matter of preference. But I would go on delicately and build up as necessary. Do up all three cans, and then you’ll be ready to move on to the next step. Now grab your turquoise acrylic cover, We’re gonna water this down merely a bit and then dabble it onto the cans expanding an ocean leech. Formerly again no need to go on too dark, you can always be developed further more beds eventually. It is not necessary truly to get the transcends of the medium and the small can because you’re not going to see them. But be sure to get the top of the big can. When that blue cover is baked, we are gonna do the same happening all over again except this time we are going to use the orange paint.

Hit all three cans and then give those puppies dry. Addressing some polyurethane varnish to your cans will help protect the cover from chips and rot for a little while, but if you hang your air sounds outside, eventually these components are going to make they’re grow including some real rusty to them. Which isn’t a bad happening because it will merely add to the weather-beaten review that we’re trying to come. So now it’s time to string up those cans. I’m gonna use a 3-foot article a plastic coated cable that I scavenged from an age-old Ethernet cable. Take one of the three ceilings that have the two flaws in it and thread it about 8 inches up from the end of the wire. Strand the end of the rope through the other fault and loop the cable around itself to keep the bottle detonator in place. Now make the long terminate of the cable and thread it through the inside of the can and out the hole.

It should now be pretty clear what we’re trying to do. By using the bottle ceilings to keep the can in its place on the duration of the cable, We’re gonna do the same happening for the other two cans by eyeballing the length necessary for the smallest is likely to nestle just slightly within the medium size can. Set a flex in the cable and then slide the bottle detonator down into its plaza.  Formerly again loop the wire around itself on the bottom of the bottle detonator, thread through the top fault and into the medium size is possible, and out the top.  Repeat the process for the largest is possible and “were all” done string them up.

String the tail end of that cable through that tin can eyelid, slant it around itself and that will act as our air catcher. The final step is to attach those 8 bottle detonator anglers to the cheek of that small-time can. You will need about 2 hoofs or so of cable which we will thread through the holes and then wrap around itself leaving a great enough loop-the-loop and then wrap around itself leaving a large sufficiently loop-the-loop so that the cable can move freely.

Measure and trimmed the wire about an inch below the length where the bottle detonator will hang down and stroke the can cause eyelid. The Strand that cable through the bottle detonator leaving a big enough loop-the-loop for the bottle detonator to move around freely. Wrap the cord around itself, and then echo the process for the remaining bottle ceilings. When you’re all done should have something that looks like this. And that’s my proficiency how to build yourself some tin can wind sounds. Now, this tutorial is certainly just the tip of the iceberg, so feel free to make these intuitions and let your ability tent-fly and run wild! Try out your own rotate constructions extending driftwood, toys, silverware, whatever you can find and watch what you can come up with. And you better believe that if you form something chill that I wanna see it.

How To Make a Dragon | Polymer Clay Tutorial


We are going to make a dragon today I was inspired by dragons and beasties onDeviantArtt that determined me wishes to design my very own dragon I’ve determined 2 3D dragons before the second is toothless back in 2014 which I do have a video on compiling it and the second dragon is foxy or pirate inspired dragon back in 2015. Now this is my third age making a dragon and this is a wintertime dragon based on my own design. What’s important in this tutorial is the technique and the thought process that I went through when developing this beast so I don’t want you to follow this video just so that you can recreate the exact same dragon but to exploit this video as a guide on how you can start to design and create your awfully own dragon or other creatures.
I will too show you how I made this wintertime seeming context. First I sketched out roughly on how the dragon would be examined like from my head but I did make changes as I start developing it with clay and oh, I have to apologize for the lighting in this video it was really bright so I had to darken it down and caliber isn’t that good I’m sorry about that. What I’m doing here is i’m exercising aluminium foil as the armature I merely deteriorated the foil into the shape of the Dragon that I have sketched out. The armature is for subscribe and to save clay too abbreviate the force of the Dragon. Then start lending the clay to the armature you can use any shade you miss. Start wrapping the clay on the armature. It’s better to wrap from the bottom up because it is easier to smooth out the seams. When designing a dragon you have to think about what kind of dragon you want to reach, what is the background legend and are there any power the dragon owns and so on. Visualize about the topic to your beast. Mine is a wintertime topic and the dragon is a gatekeeper or a gate guardian that’s why she will have a key.

Some other themes can be those four aspects of ardour, sea, hurricane, and earth. Or you are able to make a hybrid of different animals you like. Dragons are very flexible to design and the likelihoods are interminable. formerly “you think youre” does so with smoothing out the seams, start lending more clay to chassis the head and the neck. this is only the upper organization component. You want to smooth out the surface just as much as possible but if you can’t, you are able to ever make up a design that can envelop up the imperfections.

As you include clay should be considered the percentage and their own bodies organization of this beast, do you want to have a muscular organization build or a skinny one? Likewise compare the size of the head to the body. If “you think youre” making a cute child dragon, the head is usually big than their own bodies. I’m purporting for a adolescent type of a dragon so I miss a skinny and symmetrical organization and facial aspects. formerly the upper organization gapes good, take another pellet of clay and roll it into a cone shape.

This is the tail for the dragon. To connect the upper organization part and the fanny, I use a ball tool to indent the wider dissolve of the fanny first then connect and to smooth out the seams to reach their own bodies into one entire portion instead of 2 fragments. ball tools are available on my etsy patronize if you are looking that, by the way, merely shedding that in. another significant design phase to think about is the color of the dragon or other creatures. The colourings usually depends on the topic, for example, I’m focusing on a wintertime topic and I instantly thoughts about white because of snow, light-colored blue because of the coldness of wintertime. Quite much the characteristics of the topic that you want to create. Then I start to work on the head, I’m starting with the eyes first and I squandered this diamond chassis feline eye’s stone. I have other colourings available on my etsy patronize if you want to use this type of stones for your formations too. Formerly I determined the indentation for the eyes, residence the stone and thrust it into the clay then include the eyelids to cover up the bumpy edges.

For the rest of the head is certainly up to you. is certainly up to you. You can design it in anyway practice you miss. you are able to have cat like ears, include some tusks, spikes, proportions and so on. Have fun in designing your one of a kind beast. As you design, should be considered where it comes from, what type of beast it is, “re coming” with a entire legend for it and open it a name.

Make it personal so I’m not going into every single little steps or details on the designing component for my dragon but impede in judgment that as I was making this I certainly just wanted to incorporate just as much detail as possible so that I could treat up the shortcomings and you are able to not see it on the camera but there are a lot of shortcomings and dirt on my dragon. As a answer, I supplemented a lot of spikes to resemble ice.

I like to add some gemstones and jewelry to this dragon to give it more shade and temperament. So merely decorate it in regardless I miss or any practice you miss for your dragons. here I’m exercising glow in the dark clay for the tusks, there are many different appearances and qualities out there, but I exited with twisting 2 fragments of curls together and open it a fragment of curve. As you can see here I have supplemented some gemstones near the eyes, some spikes around the ears and the neck, also on top of the head. For the spikes on the back I use glow-in-the-dark clay. This is inspired by a toothless and the glow-in-the-dark aspect help to reach this dragon a little bit more magical. If “you think youre” stuck on designing your dragon and don’t know where to start, you can find inspirations from animations, movies, your babies, journals, other artists’ formations, quality and even your dreams.

My revelation received from looking at other artists’ formations and I borrowed a bunch of journals on dragons merely to understand more about this mythical beast. I have one large-scale and one small-scale pellet of clay. The large-scale one I’m mold it into a soft margin triangle and this is the big thigh for the dragon and the small one is the foot. Dragons have many kinds of paws and the chassis depends on what you are going for your dragon. Again you are able to should be considered the position that you want your dragon to be in. I selected a sitting position since it’s easier to make for this video’s determination. I like to mix the thigh to the body instead of merely putting side by side. Mixing the clay together will help to secure the fragments stronger. The paunch of the dragon is fairly grime, I know that you can’t really see it on the camera and I didn’t feel like emptying it with rubbing alcohol so I chose to include some light-colored blue color in fragments for defining the belly or the tummy.

Every move you reach is a member ofthe conceive and it certainly cures if there is a legend to go along with the dragon. The legend helps to define or rebut design investigates such why is the paunch in blue instead of orange or why there are spikes and so on. Sometimes I can over decorate this dragon so I had to step back and look at it from afar to choose what needs to be added or taken away. For some reason I appear the head is extremely empty-bellied and cold so I figure I should be add some hair or mane to this dragon. This reminds me of Jack Sparrow’s hairdo.

If the clay doesn’t stick to each other include some TLS or roast and ligament for stronger components and this is how the winter dragon looks like so far. Now I’m working on the fanny and one of the books I’ve speak established several different ideas for the fanny chassis and determined me think what chassis I should give to this dragon. The fanny is actually quite important so don’t skip this part. Since it’s a wintertime dragon, I chose to twist white and light-colored blue shade clay together in accordance with the arrangements of icicle and reach several of this to be attached to fanny so it will look like ice sounding out. I address some TLS for better attachment. You can reach the fanny really simple or make it super detailed.

alright, so here are the 2 arms for the dragon. One weapon I want it to touch the foot and the other to touch the key. The arms are quite simple to reach, I merely roll the clay into teardop appearances and then divide the digits, or the claws, or paws, I don’t know what you call it. but yea the arms look like feline paws, it’s cuter this practice and easier to reach. so one weapon is straight and the other one has a bit of curve to it. Since this dragon is a door Guardian it is appropriate for her to have a key. I got this key from banggood.com I have the link down below. I initially was just thinking about her bracing the key in both arms  but that didn’t work out so one weapon stroking the key is a simple solution. I affixed one of the arms in this position so that the key will go under the paw or the dragon’s hand.

To treat the shortcomings, I’m going to add a bunch of these little rice like fragments to the arms, the back and the thighs. It’s good to have different sizes and you are able to introduced it pretty much anywhere you miss but I miss to cover up the shortcomings. Moving onto the most exciting and challenging component is compiling the offstages. There are many different types of offstages out there and I want to go for an angel like offstages because when I hear the word trustee, I think about angels.

There is no right or wrong design so don’t be scared to design what you miss for your beast. I know the offstages are going to be quite heavy so I have to use wire to maintain the overall chassis. I’m exercising 22 estimate wire here and blending into the chassis I miss. It’s a bit tricky to get two offstages exactly the same so I eyeballed the chassis and the size. You can check by them by bracing them side by side and look what i found feature methods, up and down to see if they are close in shape and size to each other. Then I positioned it onto the back of the dragon merely to have indentation for the wire. Afer that, take the wire out and start embracing it with clay. Cut out the chassis you necessary and wrap the clay around the wire. This doesn’t have to be excellent because I will more clay to it later on. make sure to leave some wire discovered on the component where it connects to the back of the Dragon. Once the first stage of the offstages are done, put them back to the dragon and you may appear the offstages are wobbly which quarry did so I supplemented more clay on the link point to help strengthen the offstages for moving down on the back.
Formerly the offstages appear strong on the back it is high time to cleaning process any dust particles and fingerprints that are still noticeable. I use this rubbing alcohol and a small graze or you can use a Q tip-off to clean up any dirt molecules. Before putting the dragon within the oven to roast I want to make sure the offstages won’t break-dance during baking because I use a wood stove which has a supporter inside that could place greater pressure on the wing. So here I’m exercising 22 estimate wire for subscribe. Basically I’m bending the wire into a rectangle chassis and draw the 2 deaths apart so that is able to stand. Now is a picture showing where I would place the wire stand for subscribe when I roast this dragon. Now is the time to roast this in the oven for 5 minutes exclusively to let the offstages thicken so that I could include more clay to it.
The purpose of prebaking is aimed at preventing from messing up the constitute of the offstages. This is prebaked and as you can see on the right wing, I have once set more clay on it. That’s pretty much how I miss the offstages to look like and I’m going to show you how I did it. You can look up reference pictures of offstages to get inspirations. I miss the offstages to have the same composition as the hair or the mane so I roll out a bunch of curls and applied some TLS on the wing first before locating the curls on. Unbaked clay doesn’t affix well to the broiled clay that’s why you need some TLS or roast and ligament for compiling sure the fresh clay stay on. I first included the part backstage with the long curls then shorter curls for the second bed. Having different mantles helped to create publication and degree. Now I need to cover up those bumpy rims on the wing so I determined teardrop appearances and drop them into thin pieces then start locating them under the offstages and the bumpy rims. Make sure to have different sizes. I pretty much merely overlap each portion like this.

Formerly I get to the edges I wrap the clay from under up then include the rest of the details on the areas I miss. I supplemented a great deal on the back to help support the offstages and to cover up the seams. the last fragment of detail is to add some pearlx gunpowder on the wing. I use several different colourings to appreciate which ones came out better.

A slight hint of amber is neat to the offstages. I too supplemented some blue for more of cold feel. Formerly I’m done powdering it’s time to roast this dragon again. But this time I broiled it for 20 hours. I use polymer clay which is oven bake clay but if you use breeze cool clay, then you don’t need to roast it. This is all baked and oled down, I’m referring some gloss to the offstages to close up the pearlx gunpowder because because it can come off if you don’t glaze it. I have this specific gloss may be consulted in my etsy if you need it. We are not completely done more, well, this part is optional so you can choose to make it or not. I want to make a scene or cornerstone for this wintertime dragon to sit on so let’s begin by making the quartzs which I meant to be ice.

First shape or form the white shade pipe cleaners into the chassis that you miss for the quartzs. I’m making large-scale and small-scale ones merely to have some variants and affix fibres to them. The main ingredients for organizing those lustrous quartzs is Borax and you too necessary hot water. I got Borax at Target at the clean segment. So what the hell are you need to do is crowd the large-scale jar with hot roasting sea, yes it has to be with boiling sea or else it won’t work.
Then include Borax to the sea and arouse, I’m just exercising a plastic spoon for this you have to add enough borax in order to grow quartzs so merely impede lending it until the sea becomes cloudy and that it cannot view anymore borax. Then I place some into small-scale flasks and I include blue food coloring to both flasks and arouse. Then confines the string to the pipe cleaner onto a graze or you can use pokes and make the pipe cleaner hang in the pot overnight so I do recommend you do this before you go to sleep.

It takes about eight hours to appreciate a good extent of quartzs growing on the pipe cleaners. Now I’m taking the quartzs out and to bake them I just let them sit on the newspaper towel for a couple of hours. meanwhile I’m going to paint this wooden cornerstone with white acrylic covers. Yeah I did place too much make-up on it. Urgh. Let the make-up cool first before keep moving formerly everything possible must dried I use hot adhesive handgun to glue the quartzs onto the wooden cornerstone. I already took out the fibres on the quartzs. After that I use cotton chunks to cover the rest of the wooden cornerstone and it helps to cover up the hot adhesive handgun on the quartzs. The cotton ball is meant to look like snow but it does look like cloud. I use regular Elmer’s glue to glue the cottons on. Now I’m lending a blue gemstone on key since it has a place for it I’m exercising super adhesive to glue the stone onto the key then situates the dragon onto the cornerstone and standing the key so that the dragon looks like she’s touching it.

Now we are DONE with this dragon. This is my first time going to such an give for a polymer clay assignment although I did have numerou all nighters for structure in college. Man that was such a battle back then. This whole situation made me about three periods to complete I’m very happy on how it turned out and learned a lot on making this. I hope you find this helpful and tag artzierush if you happen to make a dragon or a beast of your own. I currently have polymer clay starter’s kit available amongst other substances I used in this video on my Etsy shop, connect is down below if you are interested. Thank you so much for watching and I hope you experience this video if you do, give me a thumb’s up so I know.

From: Youtube